(Revised 2/18/08)
24" x 36" PDF drawing with dimensions, weld symbols, Bill of Material and Vendor's information

The finished product

All of the bits after fabrication

Note that the end brackets are handed.

The end of the cross bar and one end bracket.

The receiver and chain ring.

The down bar and receiver bar.

All of the bits after epoxy primer and Imron semi-gloss.

Safety Fast!
You will need to be able to climb under the rear of the car, so place chocks at the front wheels.

Jack the car up, place jack stands under the rear axle. Lower the car on the stands and move the jack out of the way. DO NOT CLIMB UNDER ANY VEHICLE THAT IS SUPPORTED BY ONLY A JACK.

Replace the two tow brackets mounted to the underside of the rear bumper with the new hitch brackets using the existing cap screws and washers.

Note that the brackets are handed, mount the brackets so that they are parallel to the back of the car.

Place two cap screws and flat washers in the holes at the middle of the cross bar before mounting the ends of the cross bar to the hitch brackets.

Keep all bolts slightly loose until final assembly.

Attach the down bar to the receiver bar. Note that the bolt at the top of the down bar is temporarily mounted to make it easier to measure in the next step.

Mount the receiver bar to the cross bar. Use some sort of spacer to maintain some clearance between the receiver bar and the fuel tank. Here I used a 3/8" drive extension.

Measure down from the trunk shelf to the center of the bolt on the top of the down bar. Remove the receiver bar from the cross bar and remove the bolt from the top of the down bar.

Transfer this measurement to the inside of the trunk. Center punch and drill.

Reinstall the receiver bar to the cross bar. Install the cap screw and fender washer through the hole in the trunk and the top hole of the down bar.

Tighten all of the bolts. You're done!

Now I've got the extra room for the ice chest and folding chairs.

Sometimes in New Orleans you have to bring the shade with you.